March 30

Awake to a brisk cool morning, some of the higher mountains have a small fresh coating of snow. The air is clear and the sun is out without clouds. Bags out at 7:30 and we leave at 8:30 for a short drive to Arrowtown and some morning shopping. We had a brief introduction to the town during our off road adventure yesterday. Many old buildings, some conservation and some with period facades, dating back to the gold rush days of the late 1800’s. A good display of gold nuggets that were mined here are on display.  The Chinese were part of the miner population but and were moved by Euro settlers to the edge of town so there is a Chinese village.  The small mining villages depended on Queentown for supplies. After our stop at Arrow Town we are heading to see Mt. Cook the highest peak in New Zealand at ~12,000 feet. Initially we follow the Kawarau River and past the winery and bungee jumping place we saw the previous day.  There are man-made lakes in the area that provide water supply for the hydroelectric power and irrigation. We pass along one of the lakes, Lake Dunstan, which is the water supply for the Frazer Dam Hydro Station. There is a long manmade canal that joins the lakes; NZ gets 90% of its power from hydro and most from here.  We are passing through various mountain valleys, and do a quick stop at Jones Fruit Farm stand, for ice cream blended with some of their fruits. We see strange fruits we don’t recognize; the owner has planted a large rose garden with trellises and all manner of shrubs and statues.  The surrounding area is scrub and arid with wineries growing everywhere. Irrigation is imperative and it reminds us a lot of California. This is also big station sheep ranch country and we see the large shearing sheds that produce wool from thousands of sheep.  Our travels continue through the Pisa and Dunstan mountain ranges until we reach the tiny town of Omarama for lunch and some local shopping and browsing an antique shop and collectables.  We have found many American made memorabilia.  In Queenstown we found china plates from Minerva, Ohio. After lunch and a short drive we arrive alongside Lake Hawea and start to get our first look at Mt. Cook. The guide tells us this is a natural glacier lake, however the size is vast and symmetrical as it covers the valley floor for miles.  Alas, it is dammed and would not likely look like this without the dam.  Along the way all the water is a milky aquamarine blue, very striking set against the amber dry foliage and yellow mountains.  The range with Mt Cook is very dramatic, rising up from the valley floor.  The Tasman glacier can be seen in the lower valley from a distance.  Other, smaller glaciers hang from the tops of the mountains.  Mt Cook aka Aoraki is very striking with its pyramidal shape, snowcapped and sided with glacier. The mountains joining it from the side are a solid wall of peaks with glaciers hanging down.  Like most places around the world, NZ’s glaciers are all receding expected to be lost in 10 years.  Wonder what that will do to the water supply so dependent on it.  This is a National Park and the park lodge is called the Hermitage.  Very modern with lots of angles and levels and glass.  We visit the Visitor Center and there is info on native people, Sir Edmond Hilary who climbed Mt Cook several times, and the local flora and fauna.  There are beautiful stained glass windows and as in the hotel there are windows opening to the valley and Aoraki and other peaks.  It’s a beautiful clear sunny day and the mountain is completely exposed.  We know how lucky we are to see the area in clear weather.  Chuck walks the Kea Point Trail that goes up the valley to the mountain.  There are no threatening beasts here other than the Kea bird who steals shiny objects from the tourists. We sit on the open veranda overlooking the mountain watching the sun set.  Dinner at the hotel with a buffet meal.  We can see the mountain clearly from our seats. Darkness falls and the valley is so quiet.  The sky is clear with lots of stars and the temps drop.  They are in fall here so the days of warmth will be ending.  Long day time for sleep.